Sunbonnet Potholder - 6

The next step is another chain stitch embellishment -- this one across the dividing line between the neck flap and the main part of the bonnet.

This time start at the back of the bonnet where the neck flap and bonnet meet. Put a hook through the bonnet (at the bottom of a blue stitch nearest the back of the bonnet) and draw some yarn through. Put the hook through the bonnet again (at the bottom of the next blue stitch) and draw yarn through the loop just made.

Continue in this manner until reaching the front of the bonnet. The first picture shows this process a third of the way through -- though, of course, it's upside down from how you'd be crocheting the chain embellishment.

Then, instead of breaking the yarn when reaching the front of the bonnet, continue to chain. Chain 30 ( -- 6 to 7") or more. Break yarn. Weave in ends. The chain will be used to tie a bow at the front of the hat (another embellishment).

The second picture shows a pair of bonnets. Next time, we'll crochet them together. (They are actually the same size.)

added April 16th: After reading the latest newsletter from Talking Crochet (April 14th, 2009), I discovered that this type of crocheting has a name -- tambour -- French for drum. That makes sense since if one wanted to make a chain stitch embellishment onto linen, you'd have to use an embroidery loop to hold the material tight -- which would look like a drum skin tightened across a drum.

Sunbonnet Potholder - 5

Next is an embellishment to make the potholder look more like a sunbonnet.

The directions say:

"Embroider a row of ch sts in White around front of bonnet about 1 1/4 inches from edge"

It's just as easy to use a crochet hook.

Pick a spot 1 + 1/4" or more in from the front edge and where the white and blue meet. Put a hook through the bonnet and draw some yarn through. Put the hook through the bonnet again and draw yarn through the loop just made.

Continue in this manner until you reach the indentation at the top of the bonnet. I made 3 - 4 chain sts per 2 rows of crocheting.

Cut the yarn, draw the end through, and then weave it in.

The first pic shows the right side of the bonnet, the second the underside, and the third a completed side.

There won't be any more posts from me until after the New Year. Enjoy the Holidays!

In the mean time, you could crochet another bonnet -- placing the chain st embellishment on the reverse side of the second bonnet so that the 2 bonnets are mirror images of one another. Next time, we'll be joining the bonnets together.

Index

Sunbonnet Potholder - 4

It's taken a while for this post because I wasn't happy with the size of the potholder. It still didn't look right to me -- even with the changes I'd already made in converting a pattern for size 5 thread to one for worsted weight cotton yarn.

Here are the revised directions:
(The previous posts will be edited to reflect the changes.)

With white, ch 22
Row 1: skip 2, hdc 20, ch 2, turn (20 sts -- not counting the ch sts)
Row 2: Decrease 1 st at beginning of row, ch 2, turn (19 sts)
Row 3: Decrease 1 st at end of row, ch 2, turn (18 sts)
Row 4: Decrease 1 st at beginning of row, ch 2, turn (17 sts)
Row 5: Decrease 1 st at end of row. Break thread. (16 sts)
Attach new thread. (I used blue instead of peach.) Chain 2 to turn.
Work the rest through back loops only.
Row 6: Increase 1 st at beginning and 1 st at end of row, ch 2, turn (18 sts)
Row 7: Increase 1 st at beginning and 1 st at end of row, ch 2, turn (20 sts)
Row 8: Increase 1 st at beginning and 2 sts at end of row, ch 2, turn (23 sts)
Row 9: Increase 1 st at beginning and 1 st at end of row, ch 2, turn (25 sts)
Row 10: Increase 1 st at beginning and 1 st at end of row, ch 2, turn (27 sts)
Row 11: Increase 1 st at beginning and 2 sts at end of row, ch 2, turn (30 sts)
Row 12: Increase 2 sts at beginning and 1 st at end of row, ch 2, turn (33 sts)
Row 13: Increase 1 st at end of row, ch 2, turn (34 sts)
Row 14: Increase 1 st at beginning of row, ch 2, turn (35 sts)
Row 15: Work even, ch 2, turn (35 hdc sts)

Now to finish off the bonnet:
Row 16: Decrease 1 st at end of row, ch 2, turn (34 sts)
Row 17: Decrease 1 st at beginning and 1 st at end of row, ch 2, turn (32 sts)
Row 18: Decrease 1 st at beginning and 1 st at end of row, ch 2, turn (30 sts)
Row 19: Decrease 1 st at beginning and 1 st at end of row, ch 2, turn (28 sts)
-- or, in other words: Row 19: hdc 2tog, hdc 26, hdc 2 tog, ch2, turn (28 sts)
-- hdc 2tog is "half double crochet 2 together" -- or, in other words, "decrease 1 st in hdc"

The final 3 rows include sc (single crochet), dc (double crochet), hdc (half double crochet), and -- at the end of the last row, a slip stitch. So, I can't write "decrease 1", I need to write what stitch is used in the decrease.

These rows are a sizable departure from the original pattern. I wanted to keep the upturned brim of the hat (picture top right) from the original pattern. But, I also wanted a more rounded top for the middle of the bonnet.

Row 20: dc 2tog, dc 2, hdc 1, sc 3, hdc 18, hdc 2tog, ch 2, turn (26 sts)
Row 21: hdc 2 tog, hdc 16, sc 3, hdc 1, dc 2, dc 2 tog, ch 2, turn (24 sts)
Row 22: dc 2 tog, dc 2, hdc 1, sc 3, hdc 4, dc 6, hdc 3, sc 2 tog, slip stitch to end row.
Pull yarn through. Weave in ends.

We're almost halfway done with the bonnet potholder. We still need to make a bonnet identical to the one just made. Then we can decorate them and crochet them together.
Index

Sunbonnet Potholder - 3

After looking at sunbonnets on the web, I've realized that what I thought was the brim of the hat is actually the neck flap -- the part of the hat that covers the back of the neck. I've changed the previous posts to reflect this.

At the right is a copy of the pattern from the booklet. Since I'm working with much thicker yarn and, of course, a larger hook, the pattern here needs to be changed.

Here's the revised pattern, starting with the base chain:
Revisions from this post are in red.

With white, ch 22
Row 1: skip 2, hdc 20, ch 2, turn
Row 2: Decrease 1 st at beginning of row, ch 2, turn (19 hdc sts)
Row 3: Decrease 1 st at end of row, ch 2, turn (18 hdc sts)
Row 4: Decrease 1 st at beginning of row, ch 2, turn (17 hdc sts)
Row 5: Decrease 1 st at end of row. Break thread. (16 hdc sts)

Then for the next part of the pattern (which was not included in the last post):
Switch to contrasting color. Work the following in hdc. Work through the back loops only. Chain 2 to turn.

Row 6: Increase 1 st at beginning of row and 1 st at end of row (18 hdc's)
(or, in other words, ..... 2 hdc in back loop of 1st st, hdc in back loops only of next 14 sts, 2 hdc in back loop of last st, ch 2, turn)
Row 7: Increase 1 st at beginning of row and 1 st at end of row (20 hdc's)
Row 8: Increase 1 st at beginning of row and 2 sts at end of row (23 hdc's)
(The picture show the end of Row 8 -- where 3 hdc's are made in the back loop of the last st -- in order to increase 2 sts at the end of the row.)
Row 9: Increase 1 st at beginning of row and 2 sts at end of row (26 hdc's)
Row 10: Increase 1 st at beginning of row and 1 st at end of row (28 hdc's)
Row 11: Increase 1 st at beginning of row and 2 sts at end of row (31 hdc's)
Row 12: Increase 2 sts at beginning of row (33 hdc's)
Row 13: Increase 1 st at end of row (34 hdc's)
Row 14: Increase 1 st at beginning of row (35 hdc's)
Row 15: Work even (35 hdc's)
(or, in other words, hdc in the back loop of each hdc from the previous row -- and then, of course, ch 2 and turn)

The next installment will have the decrease rows.

Lacet Stitch

Recently, as I was reading posts from one of the Yahoo! groups that I belong to, I came across a lovely filet crochet iris pattern. I like the pattern so much that I just had to share the link. The pattern uses open and closed filet crochet squares and also the lacet stitch. The lacet stitches appear in the corners of the design.

The directions and picture of the lacet stitch at the right are from the American Thread Company booklet.

As you recall, for a basic open mesh, one has "ch 2, sk 2" between the dc's that form either side of a mesh square. (A row in open mesh is dc 1 -- or, rather ch 3 as a substitute for the dc 1 --, then *ch 2, sk 2, dc 1* across.) For a closed mesh square, one uses "dc 2" in place of "ch 2, sk 2".

A lacet stitch is the size of a 2 x 2 square of filet crochet squares. Instead of crocheting "ch 2, sk 2, dc 1, ch 2, sk 2, dc 1" to form 2 open mesh squares, a lacet stitch has "ch 3, sk 2, sc 1, ch 3, sk 2, dc 1" for the first row. In the following row, to complete the stitch, substitute "ch 5, dc in next dc" for what would be "ch 2, sk 2, dc 1, ch 2, sk 2, dc 1" if making an open filet crochet mesh.

Index to crochet articles on this blog

Covered Buttons

Continuing with the section on Trims from the American Thread Company booklet, we have instructions on how to cover buttons. Pictures of 2 covered buttons from the booklet are at the bottom of the post. The directions start out as follows:

"Ch 3, 12 dc in 1st st of ch, without joining rows, work 4 rows of sc increasing a sufficient number of times to keep work flat."

So, one starts out with a ch 3 followed by dc 12 in the first ch st. The picture at the right shows the first dc in progress.

"Without joining rows" means not to end the round with a slip stitch into the top of the first dc of the round. Instead, the first sc of the next round is made into the top of the first st of the previous round -- in other words, the button cover is worked in a spiral.

Then work flat. If you remember the spiral dishcloth we made, you'll remember that the rule of thumb is to increase 6 sts per round. So, for the second round, you could work * sc 2 in same st, sc 1 * around -- or increase every other st. For the third round, you would want to increase every 3rd st, etc. The picture at the right shows a button cover after the first sc round.

The directions say to work 4 rounds in sc. But, of course, you'd want to work the rounds of sc just enough to cover the button completely.

Once the face of the button is covered, you'll want to start on the underside and start making decreases. This is where the directions for the plain and fancy button covers differ.

For the plain button cover, you'll want to make 5 or 6 decreases per round until the back of the button mold is encased sufficiently that the button won't fall out. Then slip stitch (join), break the thread, and weave in the end.

For the fancy button, I'd suggest not following the directions as written by breaking the primary color. Instead, continue as for the plain button cover, but, for the first round of decreases, sc into the back loops only. For subsequent decrease rounds, proceed as you did for the plain button cover.

The reason for "back loops only" is to have a place to attach the secondary color. When finished with the back of the mold, attach the secondary color with a slip stitch anywhere around the outer edge of the button cover (into the front loop). Then ch 2. Then make 2 hdc's (hdc, half double crochet, is the same as s d c ) in the same place; ie, where you made the slip st. Finally, repeat " skip 1 st, slip st in next st, ch 2, 2 hdc in same st " around, as in the pattern, but use the front loops only.

Terrycloth Kitchen Towel Hanger

Returning to the terrycloth kitchen towel that we've been working on, off and on.......
Here's where we left off:

Row 1: Sc 1 into cloth, *ch 2, sc 1 into cloth* to end.
Row 2: Turn, ch 2, sc 2 in each ch sp across, sc 1.
Row 3. Turn, ch3, dc in next st in previous row, *ch 1, skip 2, dc 1* across, dc 1.
The pattern will, in most likelihood, not work out exactly. So, you can fudge by skipping only 1 st before making the last two dc's of the row or else by ending dc, skip 1, dc.

The ch 2 at the beginning of Row 2 is a substitute for a sc. The ch 3 at the beginning of Row 3 acts as a substitute for a dc. The last st of Row 2 (and also Row 3) is made into the last of the ch sts that started the previous row.

To continue:
Repeat Rows 2-3 until there are somewhere around 10 sts across (between 9 and 15), ending with a Row 3. The picture shows the first repeat of Row 2. The first of 2 sc's is being worked into a ch sp.

Then, we will switch to a different kind of mesh. The sc's in the previous mesh gave the piece a little sturdiness that was needed due the rapid decrease in width. Now, we're going to use a different mesh pattern and not change the width.

Row 1: Turn, ch 3, *ch 1, skip 1, dc 1* across.
The ch 3 at the beginning of the row serves as a substitute for a dc. The ch 1 creates a ch sp (chain space). So, even though the row starts out with 4 ch sts, it's really a dc substitute plus a ch.
Row 2: Turn, ch3, dc 1, *ch 1, skip 1, dc 1* across, dc 1.
The last dc of the row is made into the last of the 3 ch sts that served as a substitute for a dc in the previous row. The rest of the dc's can either be made into a chain space or into a ch st (whichever, as long as it's consistent). It's much easier to dc into a ch sp than into a ch st.

Repeat these 2 rows to around 5". Next week, we'll do a buttonhole for the hanger.

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As a side note: Last week, I said that double triple and triple triple sts were rarely used. Well, then I joined the Antique Pattern Library Yahoo! group. The first pattern that I looked at was a large doily pattern that had dtr's in the first round.

Slip Stitch

The project we're working on has an edging on just one edge. But, what if one wants to put an edging all around.......

Here's an example of this -- a blanket with a single crochet edging.

To make it easier to add a crocheted edging, I used a chain stitch selvage when knitting-- I.e., I knitted the last stitch of every row and slipped the first stitch of every row purlwise with yarn in front -- on both right and wrong side rows.

To make the single crochet edging: Start with a single loop on the hook, just as you did when starting the edge for the terry towel dish towel. Single crochet around. This time there is no need to make any chain stitches. I used a size 10 needle for the knitting part and a size H crochet hook for the crochet part. Make 1 single crochet under each (double) loop of the chain stitch selvage and 1 single crochet under the bottom/top of each stitch from the cast on/bind off edge. To turn the corner, single crochet 3 times in the same place. The picture shows a corner with the extra stitches (to make it lay flat) and a sc in process of being created.

When you get back to the first stitch worked, you need a way to join the edge together. The answer is the slip stitch. It's almost invisible.

Most stitches are worked by slipping the hook under both loops at the top of a stitch (unless you want a ribbed effect). For a slip stitch (slip st), place the hook under the back loop only. Yarn over. Then draw the yarn through both loops. NexStitch has a video of the stitch plus other uses for the slip stitch.

edited March 2008: In England, this stitch is called a single crochet stitch.

Finish off the piece essentially as you would a piece of knitting. Elongate the last loop and snip off the yarn just as in knitting. Then weave it in just as you would for knitting. NexStitch has a video of weaving in the ends. I dislike needles and so use a crochet hook to pull the yarn through.

If this were crocheted back and forth, I would do exactly as the video shows (except for using a hook instead of a needle). Since this is crocheted in the round, I would weave the yarn around the first few stitches made in the round instead of the last few.

Here is the finished piece, not yet blocked. The slip stitch join is in the upper right hand corner. The bottom of the picture shows what the wrong side of a single crochet stitch looks like.

Here is a picture from the American Thread Company booklet describing the slip stitch.

Double Crochet Stitch

The double crochet stitch is about twice the height of a single crochet stitch. (It is called a triple or treble crochet stitch in England and several Commonwealth countries and is abbreviated tc or 3-c.) In American notation, it is abbreviated dc. The photo at the right is from the American Thread Company booklet and describes the stitch.

In the photo, you can see both the right sides of dc sts (the top row) and the wrong sides (the bottom row).

NexStitch has a video of the stitch. The video shows the dc being made in a chain st (with the hook being put under just one loop of thread). In the pattern we're working on, the dc is made on top of a sc and so (since we want a flat effect instead of a rib effect), put the hook under both loops at the top of the sc. -- For a further discussion, look at the last 2 paragraphs of the previous article on crocheting.

The single crochet stitch took 2 steps to complete. The double crochet stitch takes 4 steps. As with most, if not all, crochet sts, one starts with a single loop around the hook -- and ends with a single loop around the hook.

Step 1. Yarn over (yo). That is, wrap the thread around the hook (from the back over the hook to the front). There are 2 loops on the hook.

Step 2. With the yarn in back, put the hook through the top of the desired st -- or whatever (as you did for a single crochet st), yo, and draw the thread through. There are now 3 loops on the hook.

The picture at the right shows the yo in Step 1 and the hook through the top of the stitch that I wanted to dc into. (I skipped 2 sts between dc's because that's what the pattern I'm making calls for.)

Step 3. Yarn over and draw the thread through 2 loops on the hook. There are now 2 loops on the hook.

Step 4. Yarn over and draw the thread through 2 loops. There is now only 1 loop on the hook, and the double crochet is complete.

The picture at the right shows the yo in Step 4. You'll notice that bottom half of the stitch is already made.

-----------

Now to get back to the terry cloth dish towel that we were working on. The final picture shows the end of the row of sc's from the directions from last week. The next row of work is a row of dc's and ch's -- to give an open mesh effect.

Row 3. Turn, ch3, dc in next st in previous row, *ch 1, skip 2, dc 1* across, dc in last st.

To explain these steps:
Turn -- Turn the fabric so that now the RS is facing you. We were working on the WS.

Ch 3: Chain 3, as a substitution for a dc.

dc in next st in previous row: Don't dc in the last st of the last row but rather one stitch over. (Sometimes, one just writes dc instead of dc 1.)

*ch 1, skip 2, dc 1* The pattern that is repeated across the row is to first chain 1, the double crochet in the 3rd stitch over from the last stitch crocheted into (to skip 2 sts).

Finally, the pattern will, in most likelihood, not work out exactly. So, you can fudge by skipping only 1 st before making the last two dc's of the row or else by ending dc, skip 1, dc. -- As was the case in the last row, there are fewer sts across than in the previous row.

Single Crochet Stitch

The single crochet stitch is abbreviated sc in patterns as in sc 2 in next ch sp (single crochet twice in the next chain space) or sc 3 in next st (single crochet 3 times in next st).

A word of warning: This is American terminology. The British term for the same stitch is double crochet (dc).

As with all crochet stitches, one starts with a single loop on the hook. In the picture at the right, I started with a loop created by making a slip stitch knot around the hook (just as one often does in starting a cast on in knitting).

There are 2 steps to making the stitch.

First, with the yarn in back, draw a loop through. In this case, I used the crochet hook to poke a hole through the terry cloth dish towel. Then I wrapped the thread around the hook and pulled the thread through. (Terry cloth is woven loosely and so it is possible to poke holes through it without snagging the fabric.) There are now 2 loops on the hook.

Second, wrap the thread around the hook again (as in the first picture) and then pull the thread through both loops.

The stitch is complete and one is left with one loop on the hook.

To make the edging, I then did 2 chain sts before making the next single crochet.
sc 1, *ch 2, sc 1* to end

The second picture show several repeats of the pattern, ending with a chain 2. The chain 2 forms what is called a chain space. I did it this way to space out the single crochet stitches.


I hope you were able to make a 6 foot long chain of chain stitches. Here is mine. But, it looks so thin. To remedy that, let's single crochet back.

The video at NexStitch shows how to do just that. The last picture in this post (from the booklet from the American Thread Company) also shows how.

Remember when starting a row to skip the first st. The last chain st made (at the end of the previous row) serves as a replacement for the first sc (at the beginning of the next row).

We've talked about how to single crochet. We've also seen how to single crochet into fabric and into chain stitches.
Next time, we'll talk about how to single crochet into a chain space and also how to crochet into the top of a single crochet stitch.

The Chain Stitch

In patterns the chain stitch is abbreviated ch -- as in "ch 3" for chain 3 sts or "skip 1 ch" as an instruction to skip the next st (which happens to be a chain st)

The first step is to make a slip stitch on the hook (the same way one would make a slip stitch for knitting). Here is a video on making a chain stitch from Nexstitch. It doesn't start with a slip stitch, however. It has an ingenious way to start without making a slip stitch.

Or, in words, how to hold the yarn and start to chain, quoting from the booklet from the American Thread Company (since it describes how to wrap the yarn around the hand better than I can.)---- This quotation starts after instructions on how to make a slip knot and assumes that the thread is already hanging from the hook.

"Hold the hook in right hand as you would a pencil, bringing the middle finger forward resting it about midway between the broad bar and top of hook. With the thread in back of hand, place thread between fourth and little finger, across palm side of fingers and over fore-finger, if more comfortable, wind thread over finger once. Do not hold thread too tightly. Hold the hook in left hand, insert hook in loop, pick up the main length of thread on hook (this is termed 'thread over' ...) and pull through loop. Repeat this ch for required length. On this foundation chain may be worked practically any stitch desired."

I hold yarn for crocheting the same way I hold yarn for knitting. (I'm a Continental style knitter.) I hold a crochet hook slightly differently than I do a knitting needle. For crocheting, I have my middle finger farthest toward the end of the hook. For knitting, I have my index finger farthest toward the end of the needle. The fingers in the left hand are also used to pull the thread downward a bit to make it easier to pull the yarn through. Note also that the yarn starts out behind the hook.
----
The chain stitch is a multi-purpose stitch. It serves the same purpose as the cast on in knitting in that it can and usually is used as a foundation row. It also serves the same purpose as the yarn over in knitting in that it's used to make crocheting more lacy. It's used to make picots. It's also used as a substitute for other stitches at the beginning of a row. Instead of making a single crochet at the beginning of a row, one might be asked to chain 1 (or 2). Instead of making a double crochet at the beginning of a row, one might be asked to chain 2 (or 3). (Some people use the lower number -- because a ch 1 is the same length as a single crochet is in height. Some people use the higher number.) I also use chain stitches when I'm going to put crocheting down for a while. I chain a few stitches loosely so that if it unravels, I won't lose any of my work. Then before beginning again, I undo the chain.

Things do even out. Double or triple crochet stitches are often substituted for chain stitches at the end of a row or round.

Our Bits and Bobs "Mom" has posted a CAL that uses chain stitches and would be great practice in chaining. (For beginners, chaining a chain 6 feet long instead of single crocheting a chain 6 feet long is much easier. For those wanting a challenge, here is a link on single crocheting a chain.)

Finally, next Tuesday, I'm going to post directions on making a border on a dish towel. For this, you'll need a terry cloth dish towel (to be cut in half), a size 7 crochet hook, and size 10 crochet thread (100% mercerized cotton). The hook and crochet thread could also be used for the CAL.

"Crochet is Quick"

This is the first installment in several on crocheting. I recently found a booklet , which belonged to my MIL, on knitting and crocheting (or at least the middle 20 or so pages) from, I believe, the American Thread Company (The first 6 pages are missing.). The booklet appears to be over 50 years old. The title of the section on crocheting is "Crochet is Quick".

I'll be posting parts of the booklet. Later, I'll also post directions for edgings -- since knitters occasionally used crocheted edgings to prevent curling -- and other projects (as the mood hits me). The first project is pictured at the right.

But, before we begin, we need some basics:

"What You Need and How To Begin
"Materials
"Crochet work takes its name from the hook with which it is done. It is one of the oldest and most useful needle work arts. It is composed of a few foundation stitches by which every design may be developed.
"Crochet Hooks used, differ in size according to the material and object to be worked. The largest, usually of Composition, Bone, Ivory or Wood are used for the heavier kind of work in wool or heavy cotton, steel hooks are preferred for finer types of Crochet in cotton. The Afghan needle is longer than usual and is the same thickness throughout.
"Crochet threads vary as to twist, size and color. Whenever possible, use the thread recommended in the directions and be sure you purchase a sufficient quantity of the same dye lot. This applies to all colors, including Cream, Linen and Ecru. Wherever 'Gauge' appears, it is important that it be followed.
"Needle gauge means the number of stitches worked to one inch and the number of rows worked to one inch. It is wise to work about a two inch square with the thread and needle recommended. If the stitches per inch do not correspond, the size of needle must be changed. If there are more sts to the inch than given, use a larger hook, and if fewer stitches to the inch, use a smaller hook. Practice until correct gauge is obtained."