Sunbonnet Potholder - 8

Last time, we crocheted the potholder together. Now we're going to add a scallop trim to the front of the bonnet.

Here's the way I wrote up the scallop edging when writing up the pattern:

Turn. Continuing to use contrasting color, repeat * ch 3, dc 2 in same space, skip 1, slip stitch 1* to where neck flap meets the main part of the bonnet. Slip stitch 2, then continue to repeat * ch 3, dc 2 in same space, skip 1, slip stitch 1* along the front of the bonnet to the point of the brim. Break yarn. Weave in ends.

In other words, after finishing the last sc in crocheting the potholder together, ch 3. Then dc 2 in that sc stitch -- making a scallop. Skip the next sc, make a slip stitch in the following sc. Then ch 3, dc 2 in the same stitch (the one that you made a slip stitch in), skip the next sc, make a slip stitch in the following sc. Continue in this manner to where the top of the bonnet meets the neck flap. Slip stitch twice. Then ch 3, dc 2 in the same stitch (the one that you made a slip stitch one), skip the next sc, make a slip stitch in the following sc. Continue in this manner to the top of the front of the bonnet. Cut the yarn and weave in ends.

The picture above shows the bonnet after all the scallops have been made with the yarn ready to be cut.

Note: Generally, when slip stitching, one makes the slip stitch through the back loop only. But, in this case, it would be better to slip stitch through both loops.

Note: "Slip 1, ch 3" produces the equivalent of a single dc. The effect is to produce the equivalent of 3 dc's in the same space.

Finally, comes tying the bow. The easiest way to tie a bow is to fold over the chains as in the picture and then tie together.

Note: The extra slip stitches in the scallop edging will lie under the bow.

Sunbonnet Potholder - 7

This potholder is designed to be worn over the hand -- or, at least, used double thickness. So, the next step is to crochet the 2 pieces together.

This will be done using a single crochet stitch. Slip stitches are also often used to crochet pieces together. In fact, just about any crochet stitch could be used. However, I selected the sc since it's sturdy and looks about the same from either side.

Place the bonnets together, right sides out.

Using white, place a slip knot around the hook -- in preparation for the first sc. Make the first sc at the bottom of the back of the neck flap. Continue to sc the bonnets together. Use white to sc the edges of the neck flap together and blue to sc the edges of the rest of the bonnet together. On the sides of the bonnet, you'll be making 3 - 4 sc's per 2 rows, approximately 1 stitch in from the side. When changing yarn, do the last yo of the sc with the next color (as in the pic) -- since the loop produced at the conclusion of the stitch will be the top of the next stitch.

On the top of the bonnet, you'll be making 1 sc per st, placing the hook through the top loops (all 4 of them) for each stitch.

Stop when reaching the bottom of the front of the neck flap. Do not break yarn. However, weave in all the other ends. Next week will be the conclusion -- scalloping.

By the way, this pattern is turning out so well that I've added it to Ravelry under Sunbonnet Potholder.

Sunbonnet Potholder - 6

The next step is another chain stitch embellishment -- this one across the dividing line between the neck flap and the main part of the bonnet.

This time start at the back of the bonnet where the neck flap and bonnet meet. Put a hook through the bonnet (at the bottom of a blue stitch nearest the back of the bonnet) and draw some yarn through. Put the hook through the bonnet again (at the bottom of the next blue stitch) and draw yarn through the loop just made.

Continue in this manner until reaching the front of the bonnet. The first picture shows this process a third of the way through -- though, of course, it's upside down from how you'd be crocheting the chain embellishment.

Then, instead of breaking the yarn when reaching the front of the bonnet, continue to chain. Chain 30 ( -- 6 to 7") or more. Break yarn. Weave in ends. The chain will be used to tie a bow at the front of the hat (another embellishment).

The second picture shows a pair of bonnets. Next time, we'll crochet them together. (They are actually the same size.)

added April 16th: After reading the latest newsletter from Talking Crochet (April 14th, 2009), I discovered that this type of crocheting has a name -- tambour -- French for drum. That makes sense since if one wanted to make a chain stitch embellishment onto linen, you'd have to use an embroidery loop to hold the material tight -- which would look like a drum skin tightened across a drum.

Sunbonnet Potholder - 5

Next is an embellishment to make the potholder look more like a sunbonnet.

The directions say:

"Embroider a row of ch sts in White around front of bonnet about 1 1/4 inches from edge"

It's just as easy to use a crochet hook.

Pick a spot 1 + 1/4" or more in from the front edge and where the white and blue meet. Put a hook through the bonnet and draw some yarn through. Put the hook through the bonnet again and draw yarn through the loop just made.

Continue in this manner until you reach the indentation at the top of the bonnet. I made 3 - 4 chain sts per 2 rows of crocheting.

Cut the yarn, draw the end through, and then weave it in.

The first pic shows the right side of the bonnet, the second the underside, and the third a completed side.

There won't be any more posts from me until after the New Year. Enjoy the Holidays!

In the mean time, you could crochet another bonnet -- placing the chain st embellishment on the reverse side of the second bonnet so that the 2 bonnets are mirror images of one another. Next time, we'll be joining the bonnets together.

Index

Sunbonnet Potholder - 4

It's taken a while for this post because I wasn't happy with the size of the potholder. It still didn't look right to me -- even with the changes I'd already made in converting a pattern for size 5 thread to one for worsted weight cotton yarn.

Here are the revised directions:
(The previous posts will be edited to reflect the changes.)

With white, ch 22
Row 1: skip 2, hdc 20, ch 2, turn (20 sts -- not counting the ch sts)
Row 2: Decrease 1 st at beginning of row, ch 2, turn (19 sts)
Row 3: Decrease 1 st at end of row, ch 2, turn (18 sts)
Row 4: Decrease 1 st at beginning of row, ch 2, turn (17 sts)
Row 5: Decrease 1 st at end of row. Break thread. (16 sts)
Attach new thread. (I used blue instead of peach.) Chain 2 to turn.
Work the rest through back loops only.
Row 6: Increase 1 st at beginning and 1 st at end of row, ch 2, turn (18 sts)
Row 7: Increase 1 st at beginning and 1 st at end of row, ch 2, turn (20 sts)
Row 8: Increase 1 st at beginning and 2 sts at end of row, ch 2, turn (23 sts)
Row 9: Increase 1 st at beginning and 1 st at end of row, ch 2, turn (25 sts)
Row 10: Increase 1 st at beginning and 1 st at end of row, ch 2, turn (27 sts)
Row 11: Increase 1 st at beginning and 2 sts at end of row, ch 2, turn (30 sts)
Row 12: Increase 2 sts at beginning and 1 st at end of row, ch 2, turn (33 sts)
Row 13: Increase 1 st at end of row, ch 2, turn (34 sts)
Row 14: Increase 1 st at beginning of row, ch 2, turn (35 sts)
Row 15: Work even, ch 2, turn (35 hdc sts)

Now to finish off the bonnet:
Row 16: Decrease 1 st at end of row, ch 2, turn (34 sts)
Row 17: Decrease 1 st at beginning and 1 st at end of row, ch 2, turn (32 sts)
Row 18: Decrease 1 st at beginning and 1 st at end of row, ch 2, turn (30 sts)
Row 19: Decrease 1 st at beginning and 1 st at end of row, ch 2, turn (28 sts)
-- or, in other words: Row 19: hdc 2tog, hdc 26, hdc 2 tog, ch2, turn (28 sts)
-- hdc 2tog is "half double crochet 2 together" -- or, in other words, "decrease 1 st in hdc"

The final 3 rows include sc (single crochet), dc (double crochet), hdc (half double crochet), and -- at the end of the last row, a slip stitch. So, I can't write "decrease 1", I need to write what stitch is used in the decrease.

These rows are a sizable departure from the original pattern. I wanted to keep the upturned brim of the hat (picture top right) from the original pattern. But, I also wanted a more rounded top for the middle of the bonnet.

Row 20: dc 2tog, dc 2, hdc 1, sc 3, hdc 18, hdc 2tog, ch 2, turn (26 sts)
Row 21: hdc 2 tog, hdc 16, sc 3, hdc 1, dc 2, dc 2 tog, ch 2, turn (24 sts)
Row 22: dc 2 tog, dc 2, hdc 1, sc 3, hdc 4, dc 6, hdc 3, sc 2 tog, slip stitch to end row.
Pull yarn through. Weave in ends.

We're almost halfway done with the bonnet potholder. We still need to make a bonnet identical to the one just made. Then we can decorate them and crochet them together.
Index

Sunbonnet Potholder - 3

After looking at sunbonnets on the web, I've realized that what I thought was the brim of the hat is actually the neck flap -- the part of the hat that covers the back of the neck. I've changed the previous posts to reflect this.

At the right is a copy of the pattern from the booklet. Since I'm working with much thicker yarn and, of course, a larger hook, the pattern here needs to be changed.

Here's the revised pattern, starting with the base chain:
Revisions from this post are in red.

With white, ch 22
Row 1: skip 2, hdc 20, ch 2, turn
Row 2: Decrease 1 st at beginning of row, ch 2, turn (19 hdc sts)
Row 3: Decrease 1 st at end of row, ch 2, turn (18 hdc sts)
Row 4: Decrease 1 st at beginning of row, ch 2, turn (17 hdc sts)
Row 5: Decrease 1 st at end of row. Break thread. (16 hdc sts)

Then for the next part of the pattern (which was not included in the last post):
Switch to contrasting color. Work the following in hdc. Work through the back loops only. Chain 2 to turn.

Row 6: Increase 1 st at beginning of row and 1 st at end of row (18 hdc's)
(or, in other words, ..... 2 hdc in back loop of 1st st, hdc in back loops only of next 14 sts, 2 hdc in back loop of last st, ch 2, turn)
Row 7: Increase 1 st at beginning of row and 1 st at end of row (20 hdc's)
Row 8: Increase 1 st at beginning of row and 2 sts at end of row (23 hdc's)
(The picture show the end of Row 8 -- where 3 hdc's are made in the back loop of the last st -- in order to increase 2 sts at the end of the row.)
Row 9: Increase 1 st at beginning of row and 2 sts at end of row (26 hdc's)
Row 10: Increase 1 st at beginning of row and 1 st at end of row (28 hdc's)
Row 11: Increase 1 st at beginning of row and 2 sts at end of row (31 hdc's)
Row 12: Increase 2 sts at beginning of row (33 hdc's)
Row 13: Increase 1 st at end of row (34 hdc's)
Row 14: Increase 1 st at beginning of row (35 hdc's)
Row 15: Work even (35 hdc's)
(or, in other words, hdc in the back loop of each hdc from the previous row -- and then, of course, ch 2 and turn)

The next installment will have the decrease rows.

Sunbonnet Potholder - 2

After finishing the second row of the potholder, I thought to myself “This is way too large.” This is what happens when switching from one weight yarn to another without thinking. The pattern as written will work for size 5 pearl cotton. It does not work well for worsted weight cotton.

So, I frogged back (which is easy to do with crochet). With crochet, there is no need to worry about picking up stitches after frogging and, in fact, no need to undo the "cast on edge" (or, rather, the base chain) completely – as there would be in similar circumstances with knitting. I frogged all of the hdc sts plus 14 ch sts – to end up with the equivalent of

ch 22, skip 2, hdc 20, ch 2, turn

for the first row, instead of

ch 36, skip 2, hdc 34, ch 2, turn

as written for size 5 pearl cotton.

To complete the neck flap for the sunbonnet, the pattern states:

"2nd row. Decrease 1 st at beginning of row, ch 2, turn.
3rd Row. Decrease 1 st at end of row, ch 2, turn.
Repeat these 2 rows twice. Break thread. Always ch 2 to turn."

However, since I'm using a heavier yarn than called for, I'm only going to repeat the 2 rows once.

The first picture shows a decrease at the beginning of a row. From left to right, the first loop is from the last ch st, the second is the yo (in preparation for making a hdc), the third is a loop drawn through the last st from the previous row, the fourth is a loop drawn through the second to last st from the previous row. To finish the hdc2tog, yo and draw the yo through all the sts on the hook.

The next picture is a hdc2tog at the end of a row. Since the sunbonnet potholder is going to be edged, it doesn't matter that the directions say to ch 2 at the end of the last row in white.

However, if the sunbonnet were not going to be edged, one should attach the new thread as the last step of the last st. In this case, instead of completing the st with white, complete it by drawing the new color yarn through the loops and then ch 2 with the new color.

The second picture shows this. (The directions call for peach for the color for the bonnet. I'm using a variegated blue – since I had it left over and besides I like blue.)

Index to crochet articles on this blog

Sunbonnet Potholder - 1

Our next project is a Sunbonnet Potholder. It's pictured at the right along with an Irish crochet doily. The picture is from the American Thread Company booklet as is the pattern.

The pattern calls for 3 60-yd balls of Peach size 5 pearl cotton and 1 60-yd ball of White for trim. It also calls for a steel crochet hook no. 8 and a bone ring.

I'll be using Peaches & Creme worsted weight cotton yarn and a size 7 (4.5mm) crochet hook. If you'd like a ring to hang the potholder with, I'd suggest using a plastic ring instead of a bone ring.

The pattern starts:

"With White, ch 36, and work 34 sdc on ch" (sdc is the same as hdc or half double crochet)

First, note that the pattern does not say to skip 2 ch sts before starting the half double crochet sts. It's understood. The next picture shows the first hdc being worked in the 3rd ch from the hook.

Note: Since we're using worsted weight yarn instead of size 5 thread, we will be making quite a few adjustments to the pattern.
The first is to replace the first line of the pattern with:
"With white, ch 22, skip 2, hdc 20, ch 2, turn"

Note also how the chain sts are laid out to be crocheted into. The hook goes under the topmost part of the chain.

--------

It's easy enough to count to 36, but to illustrate a technique, I've chained more than 36 sts. If one is making a base chain of a few hundred chain sts, it's much better to err on having too many ch sts instead of possibly too few.

The next picture shows the potholder after the first row is complete. There are several ch sts left over.

The hardest part is undoing the slip knot. The next picture shows what the chain looks like after the knot is undone.


Then all one has to do is to keep undoing the chain until there are no extra chain sts to undo.

Next time, we'll finish the bottom of the bonnet.

Index to crochet articles on this blog

Washing and blocking crochet

Here are the instructions from the American Thread Company booklet on washing and blocking crochet (or knits).

"Using hot water and a mild soap, make thick suds, add cold water until suds are fairly warm.

"Let the article stand in the suds a very few minutes, then squeeze in and out until thoroughly clean. Rinse in clear water several times or until sure the soap is removed. Roll in a bath towel. This will absorb some of the moisture.

"The work is now ready for blocking. Lay the work on a padded ironing board or a flat surface and pin in position with rust-proof pins, stretching it gently to correct size and shape. Press through a damp cloth and leave in position until dry."

Index to crochet articles on this blog

Time off

I'm going to take a little over a month off from posting on this blog. It will give me time to figure out what to post about next. There are several patterns that look interesting in the American Thread Company booklet that I inherited from my MIL. But, I'd like to crochet them before posting. Then there are some pillow case crocheted edgings that I did a long time ago with my grandmother's help. But, I'd have to figure out the patterns. And then there's the Irish crochet shawl that I helped my daughter make when she was in elementary school.

So, I've got some ideas. But, I'm not even sure anyone reads what I've written so far. I can see from the meter that the blog gets around 100 hits per week. But, it could just be from people doing searches, ending up here, and then immediately leaving. So, if you like what you see on the blog or have any suggestions about further topics, please leave a comment.

By the way, the reason I've been posting about crocheting is that I volunteered to. If anyone would like to volunteer to post about any fiber arts subject, contact the owner of the blog through the Yahoo! Bits and Bobs group or the Ravelry Bits and Bobs group.

Lacet Stitch

Recently, as I was reading posts from one of the Yahoo! groups that I belong to, I came across a lovely filet crochet iris pattern. I like the pattern so much that I just had to share the link. The pattern uses open and closed filet crochet squares and also the lacet stitch. The lacet stitches appear in the corners of the design.

The directions and picture of the lacet stitch at the right are from the American Thread Company booklet.

As you recall, for a basic open mesh, one has "ch 2, sk 2" between the dc's that form either side of a mesh square. (A row in open mesh is dc 1 -- or, rather ch 3 as a substitute for the dc 1 --, then *ch 2, sk 2, dc 1* across.) For a closed mesh square, one uses "dc 2" in place of "ch 2, sk 2".

A lacet stitch is the size of a 2 x 2 square of filet crochet squares. Instead of crocheting "ch 2, sk 2, dc 1, ch 2, sk 2, dc 1" to form 2 open mesh squares, a lacet stitch has "ch 3, sk 2, sc 1, ch 3, sk 2, dc 1" for the first row. In the following row, to complete the stitch, substitute "ch 5, dc in next dc" for what would be "ch 2, sk 2, dc 1, ch 2, sk 2, dc 1" if making an open filet crochet mesh.

Index to crochet articles on this blog

Crocheted ball fringe

The final part of the section on trims from the American Thread Company booklet (at the right) is a crocheted ball fringe.

It starts out as the cap on the cap fringe did:
"ch 4, join to form a ring, ch 1". But, instead of making 6 sc's into the chain ring, make 8 sc's.

Then for the next round, as with the cap fringe: "2 sc in each sc". (You are now working in a spiral.) -- 16 sc's in this round.

The next 4 rounds are just like those worked for the cap fringe. -- 16 sc's each round

Next, comes the part where you stuff the ball with scraps (cotton or wool or the like) before starting the narrowing process.

This pattern uses a different method of decreasing than was discussed earlier in a post on increasing and decreasing. Instead of crocheting 2 sts together, you just skip a stitch.

So, the next round is "start narrowing by skipping every 3rd st". -- 11 sc's this round (by my count)

Then for the next 2 rounds, you narrow even faster by "skipping every other st." -- either 5 or 6 sc's in the first round (depending on whether you skip then sc or vice versa) -- It really doesn't matter. And either 2 or 3 sc's in the second round. Finish this part off by making a slip stitch.

Finally, without breaking the yarn, make a chain of whatever length you'd like, and attach it. From the picture, it looks as though one does not join the chain to the mesh by slip stitching the last chain st to the bottom of the mesh. Instead, one attaches the chain by placing the chain around the mesh and then making a slip st to join the last chain st to the third (or possibly 4th) from last ch st -- thus making a small loop into the mesh.

Index to crochet articles on this blog

Crocheted cap fringe

Continuing through the section on trims, we come to the crocheted cap fringe. The instructions are at the right and a picture below, both from the American Thread booklet.

One starts with an open mesh just as for the other fringes. Because of the width of the caps, the fringe is attached to every other open mesh.

The first step is making the caps. Just as when making the Irish Crochet Rose, one starts with a chain ring -- "ch 4, join to form a ring". Join is just another way of saying slip stitch.

Then "ch1, 6 sc into ring, join".
The ch 1 at the beginning of the round is to get the tops of all the sc's at the same height. Otherwise, without a ch 1 at the beginning of the round, the first sc would be a little smaller in height than the rest. One would join (slip stitch) into the top of the first sc made.

A ch 1 at the beginning of a sc round is used when working in the round. No ch 1 at the beginning of a round is used when working in a spiral.

"2 sc in each sc" There are now 12 sc's in the round. Notice that this round didn't begin with a ch 1.

"without joining rows, work 2 rows of sc working 1 sc into each sc" The last 2 rounds are worked in a spiral. This forms the sides of the cap.

"Break thread" You don't need to slip stitch into the next stitch. But, after you cut the thread and pull the thread around the hook until the loose end is through, you should first weave it into the next stitch as you start weaving in ends.

For the fringe itself, we'll need about 20 6"-lengths of thread. Tie the strands together in the middle with a simple overhand knot. Pull one end of the strands up through the middle of the cap, through an open mesh hole, and then back through the top of the cap. (A crochet hook is useful for this.) Then make another simple overhand knot over the last one to secure the strands. My best guess is that a knot on top of a knot inside the cap will give the cap a little extra bulk and also keep the cap from sliding off.

Index to crochet articles on this blog

Double and Triple Knot Fringes

Last week, we talked about a single fringe. The fringe was attached to a mesh -- a filet crochet open mesh (dc 1, * sk 2, ch 2, dc 1 * across).

The directions for and pictures of double and triple knot fringes shown here are from the American Thread Company booklet.

The first difference between the single and multi-knot fringes is the length of thread/yarn used. (Because of the knots, one needs to use longer lengths of yarn to get the same length of fringe.) The second difference is that the strands are attached every other mesh opening.

For all of these fringes, the first knot is the cow hitch. Make the hitch every other mesh opening.

Then, take half of the strands from one fringe and half of the strands from the next fringe. Knot them together using an overhand knot. It looks better if the flat part of the knot faces outward. Then, for the double knot fringe, trim the bottom of the fringe to make it even.

(The overhand knot is the simplest kind of knot. The picture in the Wikipedia article shows 2 overhand knots.)

For the triple knot fringe, make a second overhand knot -- again splitting the fringes in half as in the pic. The first and last fringes will be a little different because they are on the edge. Again, trim the fringe to make it even across.

Single Fringe

Still continuing with the section on Trims from the American Thread Company booklet, we come to fringes. This week will be single fringes. Next week will be double and triple knot fringes.

In order to attach a fringe, the booklet recommends having a mesh to loop the fringe through. As you can see in the picture, the last row of crocheting before the fringe is an open mesh as in filet crochet open mesh ( * dc 1, sk 2, ch 2 * across).

For a single fringe, the booklet suggests cutting the yarn into 5 - 6" long strands. It looks as though there are about 6 strands for each part of the fringe (though, of course, you could use fewer or more strands and shorter or longer strands).

Evidently (after a bit of research on my part), the way the strands are attached is called a cow knot or cow hitch. To attach the fringe, fold the strands in half and slip the folded edge through the mesh from the back. Pull the folded edge through enough to be able to slip the loose ends through. Then pull the loose ends to tighten. Finally, trim the loose ends to make the fringe even across.

Tassels and Pom-poms

The section on Trims from the American Thread Company booklet continues with tassels and pom-poms. The directions from the booklet are at the right.

Both start out the same way, with wrapping yarn around a 3" wide piece of cardboard as in the leftmost of the pictures directly below.

For a tassel, wrap the yarn around the 3" cardboard about 20 times. Cut the yarn. Then tie the cut yarn around the middle. Finally, tie the yarn again about 3/4" down. The result is the rightmost of the pictures at the left. The tassel is just under 3" long. You can and probably should trim the bottom of the tassel to make it even.

For a pom-pom, again wrap yarn around a 3" piece of cardboard -- but this time about 60 times. Slide the yarn off the cardboard. Tie it in the middle -- as in the leftmost pic of the pics at the right. Then trim the sides to produce a pom-pom as in the rightmost pic of the pics at the right. The pom-pom is just under 3" across.

You can, of course, use a bigger piece of cardboard in order to make bigger tassels or pom-poms.

The booklet also gives instructions on making several at a time. Wind the yarn around heavy pins set several inches apart (depending on how many you want to make). Tie the yarn together at intervals and finally cut the yarn between the tied sections. So, if you wanted to make three 3" pom-poms at the same time, you'd place pins 9" apart. Then you'd tie the yarn together 1 1/2" from each edge and also 4 1/2" in from an edge. Then you'd cut the yarn 3" in from each edge. Finally, you'd trim the yarn and shape each section into a pom-pom.

Covered Buttons

Continuing with the section on Trims from the American Thread Company booklet, we have instructions on how to cover buttons. Pictures of 2 covered buttons from the booklet are at the bottom of the post. The directions start out as follows:

"Ch 3, 12 dc in 1st st of ch, without joining rows, work 4 rows of sc increasing a sufficient number of times to keep work flat."

So, one starts out with a ch 3 followed by dc 12 in the first ch st. The picture at the right shows the first dc in progress.

"Without joining rows" means not to end the round with a slip stitch into the top of the first dc of the round. Instead, the first sc of the next round is made into the top of the first st of the previous round -- in other words, the button cover is worked in a spiral.

Then work flat. If you remember the spiral dishcloth we made, you'll remember that the rule of thumb is to increase 6 sts per round. So, for the second round, you could work * sc 2 in same st, sc 1 * around -- or increase every other st. For the third round, you would want to increase every 3rd st, etc. The picture at the right shows a button cover after the first sc round.

The directions say to work 4 rounds in sc. But, of course, you'd want to work the rounds of sc just enough to cover the button completely.

Once the face of the button is covered, you'll want to start on the underside and start making decreases. This is where the directions for the plain and fancy button covers differ.

For the plain button cover, you'll want to make 5 or 6 decreases per round until the back of the button mold is encased sufficiently that the button won't fall out. Then slip stitch (join), break the thread, and weave in the end.

For the fancy button, I'd suggest not following the directions as written by breaking the primary color. Instead, continue as for the plain button cover, but, for the first round of decreases, sc into the back loops only. For subsequent decrease rounds, proceed as you did for the plain button cover.

The reason for "back loops only" is to have a place to attach the secondary color. When finished with the back of the mold, attach the secondary color with a slip stitch anywhere around the outer edge of the button cover (into the front loop). Then ch 2. Then make 2 hdc's (hdc, half double crochet, is the same as s d c ) in the same place; ie, where you made the slip st. Finally, repeat " skip 1 st, slip st in next st, ch 2, 2 hdc in same st " around, as in the pattern, but use the front loops only.

Crocheted cord

Between the sections on "Fancy Stitches" and on "Irish Crochet" in the booklet from the American Thread Company (which I inherited from my MIL), there is a section on trims. The first 2 trims it talks about are cords.

The twisted cord is pretty self-explanatory. It's the second cord in the picture. To make this, you get several strands of string or yarn and twist them. Then you bring the ends together, and let the strands twist around each other. Finally, you tie a knot where the ends meet to prevent the cord from untwisting.

The other cord (1. Crocheted Cord) described in the booklet involves crocheting. (Directions for both cords are at the right.) It reminds me of a knitted i-cord.

Start out as if making a spiral hotpad. Then continue as you did in making the hotpad -- except do not make any increases. In the variation here, the stitches are crocheted through the back loop.

In particular, as before, "ch 6, join" means to join the last ch to the first with a slip stitch. Then "Work 1 sc in each st" is exactly how we started the hotpad -- round 1.

"Without joining rows" means do not slip stitch the last stitch of a round to the first stitch of the round -- in other words, work in a spiral just as you did the hotpad.

Finally, "working in back loop of stitch only" means to crochet into the back loop -- and not under the entire loop (both front and back loops) as we did when making the hotpad. This, crocheting into the back loop, leaves a ridge which spirals around the cord.

The cord in the last picture is made in Peaches & Creme and a size 7 or H (4.50 mm) crochet hook. It's about an inch across.

Why the ch 2?

For both diamond dishcloths, we started out rows with ch 2 followed by a dc into the last dc of the previous round -- instead of making a ch 3 as a replacement for the first dc of the row.

The main reason for this is to give a nicer edge for times when you don't want to crochet on an edging later. The reason that this gives a nicer edge is that crochet stitches don't rest exactly on top of each other.

In knitting (in plain stockinette), each knit stitch rests squarely on top of the stitch from the previous row. (A notable exception is when one knits through the back loop across every other row. But, we're not going to go into that here.)

In crocheting, this is not the case. The stitch rest just a little bit to the right of the stitch from the previous round. This can be most clearly seen in the picture in the second row from the top (a right side row). The dishcloth ended up square because when working on the opposite side of the dishcloth, the new stitches will also rest a bit to the right. And that "bit to the right" looks like a "bit to the left" when looked at from the first side. This can be seen most clearly in the first row from the top (a wrong side row from this perspective).

The ch 2 at the beginning of a row fills in the side a little. By the way, if we started the row with a ch 3 substitute for a dc, there would be a small gap between the ch 3 and the following dc.

Filet Crochet Diamond Dishcloth - v2

The dishcloth we made last week had a mesh size 3 dc's wide. It's also possible to have a mesh only 2 dc's wide – with an open mesh consisting of only 1 chain st. The result is squarer.

The diamond pattern to the right shows such a pattern. Since a dc is approximately twice as high as it is wide, a block of 2 dc's will be approximately as high as they are wide. So, the chart has column widths and row heights the same. The chart has as many rows as columns. The resulting dishcloth itself is 31 sts wide by 15 rows tall (excluding the foundation or base chain).

Filet Crochet Diamond Dishcloth - v2
I used some left-over Peaches & Creme (or else Sugar 'n Cream) cotton yarn – worsted weight – and a size 5 or F (3.75 mm) crochet hook. Finished size 8" x 7 ½"
(As was the last pattern, this pattern was made up by yours truly just for this blog.)

Foundation: ch 33
Row 1: dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc 14, ch 1, sk 1, dc 15, ch 2, turn
Row 2: dc 3, ch 1, sk 1, dc 9, ch 1, sk 1, dc 3, ch 1, sk 1, dc 9, ch 1, sk 1, dc 3, ch 2, turn
Row 3: dc 5, ch 1, sk 1, dc 5, ch 1, sk 1, dc 7, ch 1, sk 1, dc 5, ch 1, sk 1, dc 5, ch 2, turn
Row 4: dc 7, ch 1, sk 1, dc 1, ch 1, sk 1, dc 11, ch 1, sk 1, dc 1, ch 1, sk 1, dc 7, ch 2, turn
Row 5: same as Row 4
Row 6: same as Row 3
Row 7: same as Row 2
Row 8: ch 2, then starting with 3rd to last dc in previous row, dc 13, ch 1, sk 1, dc 13, ch 1, sk 1, dc 1, ch 2, turn
(This row is different from the others. The ch 2 from the previous row isn't used as an edging. Instead it's used as the beginning of a ch 3 substitute for a dc. The following st, a ch st, is the top of an open filet. This is the only row of the pattern worked this way. Row 8 is the row being worked in the picture.)
Row 9: same as Row 2
Row 10: same as Row 3
Rows 11 – 12: same as Row 4
Row 13: same as Row 3
Row 14: same as Row 2
Row 15: dc 15, ch 1, sk 1, dc 15
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Note: Lion Brand has a wonderful collection of stitch patterns made into dishcloths. It also sends out a weekly newsletter with a stitch of the week made into a dishcloth. This is a great way to learn and try out new stitches.