Tuesday, June 24, 2008

Double and Triple Knot Fringes

Last week, we talked about a single fringe. The fringe was attached to a mesh -- a filet crochet open mesh (dc 1, * sk 2, ch 2, dc 1 * across).

The directions for and pictures of double and triple knot fringes shown here are from the American Thread Company booklet.

The first difference between the single and multi-knot fringes is the length of thread/yarn used. (Because of the knots, one needs to use longer lengths of yarn to get the same length of fringe.) The second difference is that the strands are attached every other mesh opening.

For all of these fringes, the first knot is the cow hitch. Make the hitch every other mesh opening.

Then, take half of the strands from one fringe and half of the strands from the next fringe. Knot them together using an overhand knot. It looks better if the flat part of the knot faces outward. Then, for the double knot fringe, trim the bottom of the fringe to make it even.

(The overhand knot is the simplest kind of knot. The picture in the Wikipedia article shows 2 overhand knots.)

For the triple knot fringe, make a second overhand knot -- again splitting the fringes in half as in the pic. The first and last fringes will be a little different because they are on the edge. Again, trim the fringe to make it even across.

Tuesday, June 17, 2008

Single Fringe

Still continuing with the section on Trims from the American Thread Company booklet, we come to fringes. This week will be single fringes. Next week will be double and triple knot fringes.

In order to attach a fringe, the booklet recommends having a mesh to loop the fringe through. As you can see in the picture, the last row of crocheting before the fringe is an open mesh as in filet crochet open mesh ( * dc 1, sk 2, ch 2 * across).

For a single fringe, the booklet suggests cutting the yarn into 5 - 6" long strands. It looks as though there are about 6 strands for each part of the fringe (though, of course, you could use fewer or more strands and shorter or longer strands).

Evidently (after a bit of research on my part), the way the strands are attached is called a cow knot or cow hitch. To attach the fringe, fold the strands in half and slip the folded edge through the mesh from the back. Pull the folded edge through enough to be able to slip the loose ends through. Then pull the loose ends to tighten. Finally, trim the loose ends to make the fringe even across.

Tuesday, June 10, 2008

Tassels and Pom-poms

The section on Trims from the American Thread Company booklet continues with tassels and pom-poms. The directions from the booklet are at the right.

Both start out the same way, with wrapping yarn around a 3" wide piece of cardboard as in the leftmost of the pictures directly below.

For a tassel, wrap the yarn around the 3" cardboard about 20 times. Cut the yarn. Then tie the cut yarn around the middle. Finally, tie the yarn again about 3/4" down. The result is the rightmost of the pictures at the left. The tassel is just under 3" long. You can and probably should trim the bottom of the tassel to make it even.

For a pom-pom, again wrap yarn around a 3" piece of cardboard -- but this time about 60 times. Slide the yarn off the cardboard. Tie it in the middle -- as in the leftmost pic of the pics at the right. Then trim the sides to produce a pom-pom as in the rightmost pic of the pics at the right. The pom-pom is just under 3" across.

You can, of course, use a bigger piece of cardboard in order to make bigger tassels or pom-poms.

The booklet also gives instructions on making several at a time. Wind the yarn around heavy pins set several inches apart (depending on how many you want to make). Tie the yarn together at intervals and finally cut the yarn between the tied sections. So, if you wanted to make three 3" pom-poms at the same time, you'd place pins 9" apart. Then you'd tie the yarn together 1 1/2" from each edge and also 4 1/2" in from an edge. Then you'd cut the yarn 3" in from each edge. Finally, you'd trim the yarn and shape each section into a pom-pom.

Tuesday, June 3, 2008

Covered Buttons

Continuing with the section on Trims from the American Thread Company booklet, we have instructions on how to cover buttons. Pictures of 2 covered buttons from the booklet are at the bottom of the post. The directions start out as follows:

"Ch 3, 12 dc in 1st st of ch, without joining rows, work 4 rows of sc increasing a sufficient number of times to keep work flat."

So, one starts out with a ch 3 followed by dc 12 in the first ch st. The picture at the right shows the first dc in progress.

"Without joining rows" means not to end the round with a slip stitch into the top of the first dc of the round. Instead, the first sc of the next round is made into the top of the first st of the previous round -- in other words, the button cover is worked in a spiral.

Then work flat. If you remember the spiral dishcloth we made, you'll remember that the rule of thumb is to increase 6 sts per round. So, for the second round, you could work * sc 2 in same st, sc 1 * around -- or increase every other st. For the third round, you would want to increase every 3rd st, etc. The picture at the right shows a button cover after the first sc round.

The directions say to work 4 rounds in sc. But, of course, you'd want to work the rounds of sc just enough to cover the button completely.

Once the face of the button is covered, you'll want to start on the underside and start making decreases. This is where the directions for the plain and fancy button covers differ.

For the plain button cover, you'll want to make 5 or 6 decreases per round until the back of the button mold is encased sufficiently that the button won't fall out. Then slip stitch (join), break the thread, and weave in the end.

For the fancy button, I'd suggest not following the directions as written by breaking the primary color. Instead, continue as for the plain button cover, but, for the first round of decreases, sc into the back loops only. For subsequent decrease rounds, proceed as you did for the plain button cover.

The reason for "back loops only" is to have a place to attach the secondary color. When finished with the back of the mold, attach the secondary color with a slip stitch anywhere around the outer edge of the button cover (into the front loop). Then ch 2. Then make 2 hdc's (hdc, half double crochet, is the same as s d c ) in the same place; ie, where you made the slip st. Finally, repeat " skip 1 st, slip st in next st, ch 2, 2 hdc in same st " around, as in the pattern, but use the front loops only.